Riccardo Tisci's debut for Burberry at Autumn/Winter 2019 was a highly anticipated event. The industry held its breath, wondering how the Italian designer, known for his darkly romantic aesthetic at Givenchy, would interpret the quintessentially British heritage brand. The result, showcased at London Fashion Week, was a complex and compelling collection that blended the old with the new, tradition with subversion, resulting in a show that continues to be discussed and dissected. This article delves deep into Burberry's AW19 runway show, exploring the key looks, the beauty choices, the models who brought the collection to life, and the critical reception that followed.
Burberry AW19: Everything You Need To Know About the Collection's DNA
Tisci's vision for Burberry AW19 wasn't simply about slapping a new logo onto existing designs. Instead, he sought to redefine the brand's identity, weaving together its rich history with a contemporary, and occasionally rebellious, sensibility. The collection was a masterful blend of seemingly disparate elements: classic Burberry checks were reimagined in unexpected ways, appearing on everything from tailored jackets to flowing dresses. The iconic trench coat, a cornerstone of the Burberry legacy, was reinterpreted with updated silhouettes and bold colour palettes.
The show itself was a spectacle, held in a vast, industrial space transformed into a captivating setting. The lighting was dramatic, casting long shadows and emphasizing the textures of the garments. The overall atmosphere was one of controlled energy, a reflection of the collection's own internal tension between classic elegance and modern edge.
Tisci's approach was a deliberate attempt to appeal to a younger demographic while still respecting the brand's heritage. He achieved this by layering references to British culture with a distinctly modern, sometimes androgynous, aesthetic. The collection featured both overtly feminine pieces and sharply tailored menswear, blurring the lines between genders and challenging traditional notions of style. This was not simply about offering clothes; it was about crafting a narrative, a story about British identity reimagined for the 21st century.
Burberry Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear: Deconstructing the Runway Looks
The runway looks themselves were a showcase of Tisci's design prowess. He masterfully played with proportions, using oversized silhouettes juxtaposed against more fitted pieces. The colour palette was rich and varied, ranging from classic neutrals like beige and navy to bolder shades of crimson, emerald green, and vibrant yellow. The use of texture was equally impressive, with everything from luxurious cashmere and soft leather to heavier, more structured fabrics like wool and tweed.
Several key themes emerged throughout the collection. One was the aforementioned reimagining of the Burberry check. Tisci manipulated the pattern, enlarging it, distorting it, and incorporating it into unexpected contexts. Another recurring motif was the use of equestrian-inspired details, a nod to Burberry's heritage as a maker of outdoor clothing. These details, however, were updated and subtly modernized, avoiding any sense of costume or pastiche.
Specific runway looks that stand out include:
* The oversized trench coats: These were not simply elongated versions of the classic; they were reimagined with dramatic proportions and often featured unexpected details like contrasting linings or exaggerated collars. They embodied the collection's overall theme of a sophisticated yet rebellious femininity.
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